Questions: Faucet Repair and Replacement

Question 1

A kitchen faucet drips slowly when fully closed. What is the most likely cause and correct fix?

• A. The water supply pressure is too high; install a pressure reducer
• B. The internal sealing component (washer or cartridge) is worn; replace it
• C. The faucet handles are loose; tighten the handle screws
• D. The pipes under the sink are corroded; replace the supply lines

Answer: (B)

A drip from a closed faucet means the seal between the water supply and the spout is incomplete. Household water is under constant pressure — when the sealing component (a washer, cartridge, or O-ring depending on faucet type) wears out, that pressure wins and water escapes. The fix is replacing the worn sealing part, not the whole faucet. Handle tightness and supply line condition are irrelevant to the internal seal.

Question 2

What is the correct first step before disassembling any faucet for repair?

• A. Remove the decorative cap and handle screw to expose the cartridge
• B. Turn off the main house water supply
• C. Open the faucet handles to release any remaining pressure in the lines
• D. Shut off the under-sink supply valves and open the faucet to relieve pressure

Answer: (D)

The correct sequence is (1) shut off the dedicated under-sink supply valves — not the whole house — then (2) open the faucet to release residual pressure in the lines. Skipping the shutoff means water under pressure sprays out the moment a component is removed. Option B (main shutoff) works but is unnecessary and inconvenient. Option C (open faucet only) doesn't actually shut off the supply. Option D correctly describes the full first step.

Question 3

Tightening the faucet handle firmly will usually stop a slow drip over time as the internal components compress and re-seal.

• T. True
• F. False

Answer: False

Tightening the handle does not fix a drip because the handle controls the stem or cartridge position, not the condition of the sealing surface. A worn rubber washer or damaged cartridge has lost its ability to form a watertight seal regardless of how hard you press it. Overtightening can actually worsen the problem by accelerating wear. The fix always involves replacing the worn sealing component — not applying more mechanical force to it.

Question 4

A cartridge faucet and a compression faucet both stop water flow by compressing a rubber washer against a seat.

• T. True
• F. False

Answer: False

Only compression faucets use a rubber washer pressed against a seat by a threaded stem — this is their defining sealing mechanism. Cartridge faucets use a replaceable plastic cartridge that slides up and down (or rotates) to align or block flow ports — a fundamentally different mechanism. Ball faucets use a rotating ball with rubber O-rings and springs. Ceramic disc faucets use two closely machined discs rotating against each other. Knowing the sealing mechanism tells you which part to replace.

Question 5

Explain why a faucet drip almost always indicates a failed internal seal rather than a connection problem, and what that tells you about where to focus your repair.

Model answer: A faucet is a valve — its job is to create a seal that blocks the constant water pressure from the supply line. When the faucet is 'off,' the seal is doing all the work. A drip means that seal is incomplete, allowing pressure to push water through. Connection problems (supply line joints, pipe fittings) would leak continuously and typically at a junction, not through the spout. The drip exits through the spout precisely because the internal sealing mechanism — the washer, cartridge, or disc — has failed to fully block the flow path.

This reasoning helps you diagnose before you disassemble. A drip from the spout → internal seal failure (washer, cartridge, ceramic disc). Leak around the base of the faucet → O-ring failure at the faucet body. Leak from under the sink → supply line connection or shutoff valve. The location of the leak tells you which sealing surface to inspect and replace.