Faucet Repair and Replacement

Core Idea

Leaky faucets are among the most common plumbing issues and often result from worn washers or cartridges. Repair requires shutting off water, disassembling the faucet, and replacing the faulty part—no special tools needed for most repairs. Understanding faucet types and components enables confident diagnosis and repair.

How It's Best Learned

Repair an actual leaky faucet under guidance; observe water shutoff procedures and component assembly before attempting independently.

Common Misconceptions

• 'A leaky faucet requires full replacement' (usually a cartridge or washer swap fixes it).
• 'Tightening handles will fix leaks' (worn internals require part replacement).

Explainer

A faucet is fundamentally a valve — a mechanism for controlling water flow by creating and releasing a seal. Every drip from a closed faucet means that seal is no longer complete. From your study of plumbing basics, you know that household water is under constant pressure from the municipal supply or well pump; the faucet's job is to block that pressure when you want no flow. When the sealing component wears out, pressure wins, and water escapes drop by drop. Understanding this helps you diagnose a drip: the leak is at the sealing point, and the fix is replacing that seal.

There are four common faucet types, and each has a characteristic sealing mechanism. Ball faucets (single-handle, common in kitchens) use a rotating ball with ports that align with inlet holes — the ball and its rubber O-rings and springs are the wearing parts. Cartridge faucets (single or double handle) use a replaceable plastic cartridge that slides up and down to control flow; when the cartridge wears, you pull it out and push a new one in — often a five-minute repair once the handle is off. Ceramic disc faucets use two closely machined discs that rotate against each other; they are extremely durable and rarely fail except when grit scratches the disc surfaces. Compression faucets (the oldest type, two separate handles) use a rubber washer pressed against a seat by a threaded stem — turning the handle compresses the washer to stop flow; this is the simplest design and the easiest to repair, requiring only a matching washer.

The universal first step for any faucet repair is shutting off the water supply. Every sink has dedicated shutoff valves on the supply lines under the cabinet — one for hot, one for cold. Turn them fully clockwise. Then open the faucet to release the pressure remaining in the lines. Only after water has stopped flowing should you begin disassembly. This step is non-negotiable; skipping it means water under pressure sprays out the moment you remove a component.

Disassembly follows a predictable pattern regardless of faucet type: remove the decorative cap on the handle (usually pops off with a flathead screwdriver), unscrew the handle screw, pull the handle off, and the cartridge or stem is now exposed. Photograph the assembly before removing anything — this is your reference for reassembly. Bring the old cartridge to the hardware store to match the replacement exactly, since cartridges are brand and model specific. Reassemble in reverse order, restore water supply slowly, and check for leaks before calling the job done.