Nail holes and small dings are filled with lightweight spackling compound applied with a putty knife, allowed to dry, and sanded flush. Larger holes (up to 6 inches) require a backing method — either a mesh patch kit or a California patch cut from drywall — secured with joint compound applied in multiple thin coats. Each coat must dry completely before the next is applied; rushing produces cracks and uneven surfaces.
Small holes are ideal practice — fill a few nail holes in a spare room and paint over them to see the final result. The 'feathering' motion with a wide putty knife is what produces invisible repairs.
Drywall is a sandwich: gypsum plaster core between two layers of paper facing. The paper is what gives drywall its structural integrity in tension — the gypsum itself is brittle. When a hole is punched through drywall, the paper facing is torn, the gypsum crumbles at the edges, and the continuous surface is interrupted. The goal of any repair is to restore that continuous surface: structurally supported, dimensionally flush with the surrounding wall, and with a texture and porosity that accepts paint the same way the undamaged wall does.
For small holes (nail holes, small dings, holes up to about 1/2 inch), lightweight spackling compound applied with a putty knife is sufficient. Spackling is pre-mixed to a consistency that fills small voids, adheres to the surrounding paper and gypsum, and sands easily once dry. Apply a small amount, press it into the hole, and scrape the surface flush in one stroke. After it dries — which takes anywhere from 30 minutes to a few hours depending on depth and humidity — sand lightly with fine-grit sandpaper (120-150 grit) until the surface is flush. Spackling shrinks slightly as water evaporates during drying, so a second thin skim coat may be needed for deeper holes before the surface is truly flat.
For larger holes (1 inch to about 6 inches), the primary challenge is that joint compound has nothing to bond to across the void. The solution is always the same regardless of method: create a backing. A mesh patch kit (a self-adhesive aluminum mesh square) provides a base for compound to grip across the gap. A California patch (a piece of drywall slightly larger than the hole, with the gypsum scored and removed from the edges so only paper flanges remain) creates an even stronger repair because the flanges of paper bond to the existing wall surface. Either method is then finished identically: apply joint compound in multiple thin coats (typically 3), feathering each coat 2-4 inches wider than the previous to blend into the surrounding wall. The feathering stroke — tapering the compound to a thin, nearly invisible edge — is the skill that separates invisible repairs from visible patches.
The multi-coat requirement exists because of drying physics. Joint compound (sometimes called "mud") is approximately 50% water by weight. As it dries, that water evaporates and the compound shrinks. A single thick coat dries with internal stresses that cause cracking and surface unevenness. Thin coats dry uniformly, each becoming a stable base for the next. The final coat should be a thin skim — almost translucent — over the entire repair area. After sanding smooth, prime before painting: joint compound is highly porous and absorbs paint aggressively, producing a dull flat spot even under multiple paint coats. A single coat of drywall primer seals the compound and equalizes its absorption rate to match the surrounding wall, making the repair invisible under any finish paint.